Recent content by jwcrellin

I was exaggerating a little, I can turn it up to 14 before I start to fear for my window glass.

So I finally got the 4 channel working, turns out I had a fuse that was just snugged into place and was causing the intermittent problems. I have my front 5.25" 4 ohm's powered normally off the front channels. I paralleled the kicker 6x8's and kenwood 6x9's to run 2 ohm on the rear channels...

I know consumers are idiots, but I think theres a reason that capacitors are a billion dollar industry.

Yes I know, and since it's a dual vc its already pushing 2ohm and I can't do 2 in parallel. lol If I choose to go with 2 subs in the future, i'll probably go 15". All or nothing ya know.

So, consensus is that Acoustik Gothic 12" are garbage and caps are worthless for the most part.

I got the one from Walmart, so it's probably last year's model. I'm positive that it said dual 4 ohm voice coils on the box, I matched the specs very carefully when pairing with the amp. I drilled 3 holes in my trunk floor and got some ground posts installed. I got the 4ch amp out of...

No I have the Gothic sub, which is a dual 4ohm voice coil, powered by a Kicker 1200 mono. I'm in the process of upgrading the wiring of the charging system under the hood and installing a 1Farad cap as a blingy distribution block.

Your alternator puts out like 14 volts to constantly recharge the 12v lead acid battery. When you turn on your lights and stereo and stuff the variable pully kicks in to compensate for the load. What happens when the alternators internal regulator can't react fast enough..... Lights dim.

Caps are basically batteries with a quicker discharge profile for when a circuit needs a quick burst of power. The theory is sound. I will also be upgrading my charging system wiring to 4 awg to get that 10% back.

I got the sub working. Turns out my power wire was 10awg with a 40amp blade fuse, replaced it with 4awg and a 100amp ANL fuse. I also ran a relay in the amp switch and moved the 4awg ground to a better spot after scraping some paint. Still gotta run speaker wire and anchor the 6x9's to get...

So my system will be the 1200 mono amp for the sub and a 1200 4 channel amp bridged to 2ch for 2 kenwood 300rms 6x9's. I have a distribution block splitting the 4AWG cable to the 2 amps. Each amp has separate chassis grounds. Should I put a capacitor inline before the mono amp to help with...

Even if the sub is only good for 900watts rms, the amp is quality and will put out 1200 watts rms all day long aka headroom to play with gain and crossover settings.

I haven't plugged it into my system yet, but do you think it will give my music some more kick? GW3-12 | PowerAcoustik My amp. Kicker CX Series 1200W Class D Mono Amplifier with Variable Low-Pass Crossover Black 43CXA12001 - Best Buy

So I got the new Kenwood head unit installed with thicker 12 awg shielded wire. Sounds better than the old aftermarket head. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KDCX701/Kenwood-Excelon-KDC-X701.html Now I just have to install the 100 amp fuse inline of a 4 awg cable, yeesh, I need to get some...

I know power acoustic isn't great because its the most powerful sub at my local Walmart and it still was only $90. If it blows up, i'll get something better.lol I'd rather spend the extra $$ on that kicker 1200.1 Wow, my soldering is way better than it used to be. how did that happen?