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White Noise from Tweeters Help!!!
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<blockquote data-quote="honkyg^2" data-source="post: 8804164" data-attributes="member: 675064"><p>When an anomalous source of engine whine cannot be located, i always start with electrical as it is usually caused by uneven ground potential in my experience'especially when integrating stock with aftermarket equipment. </p><p></p><p>Fastening a long 16ga wire at your alternator case via alligtor clip or fastener can help you pinpoint the general area of said anomaly when you connect the other end to each corresponding ground connection further down the line.</p><p></p><p>Where you start is arbitrary. If you assume its the head unit, start there by grounding out the chassis. If whine goes away, its either a faulty/damaged unit, or a bad ground connection. The whine will be there regardless of amplitude, so listening at low volume is advised.</p><p></p><p>I tend to start at the main ground inputs on the amp/s, then peripheral signal chain equipment, then the negative distro, to each grounding fastener up the chain. Common multimeters are not sensitive enough to show micro-ohms to determine exact ground potential, but they will determine a overtly bad connection.</p><p></p><p>There are other methods to try, but i usually default to this as it involves the least effort needed to quickly gauge the scope of what youre getting yourself into.</p><p></p><p>Just weighing in as to afford a different procedure not yet mentioned.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="honkyg^2, post: 8804164, member: 675064"] When an anomalous source of engine whine cannot be located, i always start with electrical as it is usually caused by uneven ground potential in my experience'especially when integrating stock with aftermarket equipment. Fastening a long 16ga wire at your alternator case via alligtor clip or fastener can help you pinpoint the general area of said anomaly when you connect the other end to each corresponding ground connection further down the line. Where you start is arbitrary. If you assume its the head unit, start there by grounding out the chassis. If whine goes away, its either a faulty/damaged unit, or a bad ground connection. The whine will be there regardless of amplitude, so listening at low volume is advised. I tend to start at the main ground inputs on the amp/s, then peripheral signal chain equipment, then the negative distro, to each grounding fastener up the chain. Common multimeters are not sensitive enough to show micro-ohms to determine exact ground potential, but they will determine a overtly bad connection. There are other methods to try, but i usually default to this as it involves the least effort needed to quickly gauge the scope of what youre getting yourself into. Just weighing in as to afford a different procedure not yet mentioned. [/QUOTE]
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