Distribution block or seprate runs from batt

[bootsdodgejn]

So i am in the process of adding 2 batteries to my truck and 4 15s. Already have 2 batteries for the engine (diesel) I will be running a 2 alpine mrx 240s that use 0 gauge and a kicker 4 channel that uses 4 gauge. now would it be best to run a cable to the back of my wall to a block then from there to the amps OR. just run separate leads directly from the battery. iv seen it done both ways. just didnt know if one is better then the other.

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[Side Show 10+ year member]

have you thought about putting your second battery in the rear, right next to your amps? and run two runs from that to the amps.

 

[bootsdodgejn]

I have and that was the original plan. but there is not enough room. Also i am adding 2 extra batteries. I was thinking with them in the bed. Each battery gets connected to 1 alpine 240.

 

[jrdnhsnbrg 10+ year member]

I'm confused by the post. Will you have 2 Alpine MRX-M240s and 1 of the kicker amps? What I'd suggest is using a buss bar- basically 2 metal bars of some material, 1 that connects to the positives of the rear batteries and one between the negatives. You can then connect your positives and negatives from the front batteries and ground and to the amps. For good measure if I were you I'd have 2 runs of 0 gauge positive wire from the front to the positive buss bar and 2 0 gauge chassis grounds to the negative buss bar. If you have any questions as to what the buss bars look like, Steve Meade used them when he connected up all his extra batteries when he rebuilt his Tahoe, take a look at his videos.

EDIT

Here's a video to check out. Sorry about the link going to a mobile site, I'm on my phone.

 

[bootsdodgejn]

You are correct on the amp selection. I was going to have the batteries in batt boxes since they will be in the bed. But i can change that up to. That makes sense. I would not have to worry about running a line from the negative of the engine batteries to the negative bus. correct

 

[jrdnhsnbrg 10+ year member]

Correct, as long as both are connected to the chassis of the vehicle. So by the end of it you'll have 2 runs of positive 0 gauge from the front batteries (1 run from each battery) to the rear bus bar then 2 0 gauge grounding cables from the negative bus bar to the chassis. You'll also probably want a run of 0 gauge from each of the front battery negatives to the chassis in addition to what you already have. This is just what I would suggest for bare minimum wiring for 5000W+ RMS.

 

[Controlit]

why cant he just update if factory wire is to small between the two fronts and 1 run to the rear batts?

 

[jrdnhsnbrg 10+ year member]

He could but I feel like only running 1 wire could bottleneck the system, 2 runs might sound like overkill but with 5000W RMS it really isn't. He should be upgrading the stock wiring regardless.