tyler_fitz 10+ year member
They call me Weezer
Man it's been years since i've been here! Alright folks here's what i'm workin with:
Sundown Audio d8 powered by an Elemental Designs LT.200 plate amp.
Now when i built the box a few years ago i must've looked over all specifics about tapering and dampening. the box i built had a consistent port area throughout. all the turns were kerfed/rounded (huge pain in the *** but it turned out great!). the only problem is.... it's pretty rough around the edges. all the areas that i kerfed are pretty rough as i filled it all in with a glue/sawdust mixture to help reinforce it. when i glued/nailed the sides of the enclosure the walls of the port weren't exactly square, and it's apparent when you look at the port opening, it's a little cattywompus. (and driving me nuts just looking at it...)
but without the dampening or tapering, i still love the way it sounds. does it really make a huge difference doing it the way i did it? for an 8" 200w setup it's got great clean output, compared to some of my friends 12" storebought setups that cost 2-3x as much.
anywho, basically what i need from you guys is.... how do i calculate the length of the port? i know the length needs to be 1/4 of the subs resonant frequency, area needs to be the same as the cone.
i've thought of a new way to build it without kerfing and it should have some flawless curves and be way more solid. if i get this **** figured out i'll do a build log, should be pretty interesting.
Sundown Audio d8 powered by an Elemental Designs LT.200 plate amp.
Now when i built the box a few years ago i must've looked over all specifics about tapering and dampening. the box i built had a consistent port area throughout. all the turns were kerfed/rounded (huge pain in the *** but it turned out great!). the only problem is.... it's pretty rough around the edges. all the areas that i kerfed are pretty rough as i filled it all in with a glue/sawdust mixture to help reinforce it. when i glued/nailed the sides of the enclosure the walls of the port weren't exactly square, and it's apparent when you look at the port opening, it's a little cattywompus. (and driving me nuts just looking at it...)
but without the dampening or tapering, i still love the way it sounds. does it really make a huge difference doing it the way i did it? for an 8" 200w setup it's got great clean output, compared to some of my friends 12" storebought setups that cost 2-3x as much.
anywho, basically what i need from you guys is.... how do i calculate the length of the port? i know the length needs to be 1/4 of the subs resonant frequency, area needs to be the same as the cone.
i've thought of a new way to build it without kerfing and it should have some flawless curves and be way more solid. if i get this **** figured out i'll do a build log, should be pretty interesting.
