Need help....spending to much **** money...stilll having problems

[fire919 10+ year member]

Hello all, Hope pic isn't to messy but i am spending to much **** money and still have the same issues......hope someone here can help me.

issues

1. that 4 channel keeps cutting off, getting hot, and dosen't sound loud (gain currently set @ 0.8v)

2. also the mono amp 'kenwood 9105d' isn't bangin hard enough'...but for the time being i would like to keep it @ 4-ohms....it just dosen't seem like 500rms to me.

3. the **** lights keep dimming

.....anyway...from the image i drew up everything is wire exacty as shown...if there is something wrong with the wiring PLEASE let me know....as for the frequencies (from the tweeter crossovers, 4-channel amp, and sub amp) i want to know how to set them.....what exact values to put them on. Again, hope you can c the image clearly' that's just how the frequencies r set' as for the Headunit everything is basically set to default.....but if any of you have experiences with a 'pioneer deh-p600ub'....feel free to let me know if there's anything i can do as it relates to settings. The equalizer, still set to default settings 'all knobs are in the middle'

external links

bigger pic http://i56.tinypic.com/25jjszn.jpg

Click to read more...

 

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

I think your wiring is fine, provided everything is grounded correctly.

Knowing the guys on here, they're going to want model numbers along with the usual dimming questions.

Total rms you're running?

Big 3 done?

HO alternator?

Batteries?

 

[sobe3yourself. 10+ year member]

I think your wiring is fine, provided everything is grounded correctly.
Knowing the guys on here, they're going to want model numbers along with the usual dimming questions.

Total rms you're running?

Big 3 done?

HO alternator?

Batteries?

This. Make sure everything is grounded the right way. Dont just find some metal. Get to the chassis and strip away any paint there.

Big 3 will help a lot, if not already done.

Are you subs hooked up to the two connections where is says "bridged"? if your amp is bridgeable.

A lot of amps are not and do not produce too much power at 4 ohms compared to what they are advertised at.

 

[fire919 10+ year member]

ok...maybe it is grounds....bcuz i really dnt have the equipment to grind down to bare metal......i just used sand paper....+ what about the whole frequency stuff are they set right do they have to be the same one the equalizer, and amps HU too?

 

[Imtjnotu 5,000+ posts]

What brand is ur power wire? And it may be the grounds....can u take any pics of how u have it grounded...

What alternator? Do u have the big 3 done

 

[fire919 10+ year member]

the sub amp iz a mono dclass....it has ++ and -- no bridge, terminals in parrallel.

 

[fire919 10+ year member]

i have a stock alternator maybe 110amps....the batt iz about 330 CCA (don't knw what that means to you guys)...but in lamens terms its not a heavy duty battery....jus a regular battery you'll get for a 2.5L car.....as far as the big 3 i have upgraded those wires to 0 gauge.......can grounds alone really be causing all of this Fuuckk-ah-ree....bcuz the system dosn't sound good at all

 

[fire919 10+ year member]

jus as a side note.....i have a friend who had a similar setup.....he didn't have any HO alternator, no big 3...and his set was ringing my lawd....i want that for my self.....but something is **** up somewhere...and i dnt have dah money for audio shop

 

[fire919 10+ year member]

Oh yeah.....if i were to connect the just MRV-f345 (no sub amp connected) straight to my batt w/no inline fuses the amp play's quite loud (atleast it sounds like i'm actually using one....which is more than i can say now).....but after a while it still gets flippin hot and shuts off.....if i bridge @ 4-ohms to play my subs the bass hits nice, better than they are now. Can u believe it.....you knw i'm pissed.

 

[fire919 10+ year member]

i will upload my ground pics @ all three points (BATT, interior, trunk) 2marra.....scratch dat...later on 2nite.....i'm jus tired of this same F_U_C_K everyday and i can't listen 2 music with no sense

 

[fire919 10+ year member]

thanks to all for ur help so far

 

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

jus as a side note.....i have a friend who had a similar setup.....he didn't have any HO alternator, no big 3...and his set was ringing my lawd....

Same exact car? (year, model and engine size)

Oh yeah.....if i were to connect the just MRV-f345 (no sub amp connected) straight to my batt w/no inline fuses the amp play's quite loud (atleast it sounds like i'm actually using one....which is more than i can say now).....but after a while it still gets flippin hot and shuts off.....

What kind of speakers are you using for your front and rears? The amp is 75rmsx4 @ 4ohms, as you may already know.

Also, why are you running 2 fuses just out of curiosity? I would just use the 1, but that's me.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

two fuses are for the fused distro block. that is fine.

nice diagram. thanks for that.

what doesn't sound good? be specific. listen to instruments and think about how they should sound.

4 ch amp should have HPF set around 80Hz or so. Kenwood LPF around 80Hz or so. make sure none of the EQ levels are boosted. i have that EQS-746 in my basement and have used it before. it's ok, decent for the money.

the kenwood is 1 ohm stable. wire it that way. wire all coils in parallel. you're giving like 125W to each coil - and only if you have 14.4V. take advantage of a lower impedance load.

front speakers - sound quality depends on mounting and seals. weatherstripping foam is the cheapest speaker "tweak" in car audio. seals are crucial for good performance. seal between speaker and door. seal between speaker and panel/grill.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

if the 4 ch amp is getting too hot with that load, you either have 2 ohm speakers or a wiring problem. likely you have a few wire strands that are shorting out. make sure no bare copper wire strands are visible at any connection (amp/crossover/speaker).

 

[fire919 10+ year member]

hey all...i didn't get a chance to take pics of my grounds.....to ColterDC i have an '98 Acura Tl 2.5l 5 cylinder' don't knw why that is important but hey i need all the help i can get....as for the speakers i have a pair of alpine spr-17s in the front and a pair of alpine spr-69c in the rear......as for the fuses i was just scraping for wire, and needed to join my 4gauge primary to a piece of 8gauge and thought distro block. will work.........to Keep_hope_alive.....when i say it dosent sound good i mean i can barely hear my interior speakers when my sub iz on....thats not to say that my subs are banging....bcuz to be honest i really don't believe its putting out 500rms....which is essentially what i'm suppose to be getting @ 4-ohms....I had my subs wired down to 1-ohms before and the bass response was worst in terms of output (@ 4-ohms the subs bubble harder than @ 1-ohm 'i know right' was the hell is up with that).....as for the frequencies i will take ur advice, makes sense....bcuz i can definately tell you they aren't set that way......and i don't know if i'm jus blind or what but i've been over those wires 100x and i don't recall seeing any bare wire...i use 12 gauge for interior....oh an something that may be important to tell u guys iz i use electric tape (so you know jus ah basic wrap around)......as for the rattling that can fix later...i'm really not complaining about that right about now.

Thanks you guys really appreciate your assistance so far.